Detailed Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive Lima
On arrival in Lima we transfer to our Hotel in the Miraflores district
of Lima. If time permits, we walk to a cliff lookout onto the Pacific
Ocean, for Band-tailed, Kelp and Gray Gulls, Peruvian Booby, Peruvian
Pelican, and Guanay and Neotropical Cormorants. Common and widespread
lowland birds are here – Southern House Wren, Pacific and Eared
Doves, Blue-gray Tanager, Bananaquit, Blue-and-white Swallow, American
Kestrel, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-collared Sparrow, and perhaps most
intriguing - the two morphs of Vermilion Flycatcher, the usual and
superb red morph and the odd and highly local black morph.
Day 2 - Lomas de Lachay
Today we drive to the Lomas De Lachay reserve 105 km north of Lima. These
coastal hills are an oasis in the desert, seasonally covered in a fog-bank
that provides water for annuals and xerophytic plants like cactus and
agaves. Many very special birds occur here; Cactus Canastero, Thick-billed,
Coastal and Grayish Miners, Least Seedsnipe, Collared Warbling-Finch,
Tawny-throated Dotterel and many more. Paraiso is a site where the rare
Peruvian Tern breeds and is also a haven for shorebirds, and there is
a chance of finding Chilean Flamingos. Night in Miraflores district of
Lima.
Day 3 - Urubamba
This morning we take the flight to Cusco, arriving and transferring to
the Sacred Valley to acclimatize to the altitude while doing some easy
birding in the Valley. Several species of hummingbirds occur here, including
Giant, the largest hummer in the world, Green-tailed Trainbearer, Great
Sapphirewing, Shining Sunbeam, and the marvelous Bearded Mountaineer.
White-winged Cinclodes, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, Red-crested Cotinga
and Blue-and-yellow Tanager occur in the dry scrubby hillsides, and maybe
a Puna Hawk or a Mountain Caracara will glide overhead. Overnight in
Sacred Valley.
Day 4 - Abra Malaga
Full day visit to Abra Malaga, at 14,200 ft (4230 m) the low point along
a ridge of rugged peaks; buffering the upper limits of these habitats
is the starkly beautiful puna grassland dotted with llamas, alpacas,
and the very occasional cluster of stone houses, corrals, and fences
erected by Quechua-speaking families who are somehow accustomed to prospering
in what seems to most visitors an inhospitable environment. The bird
life includes many species endemic to a small geographic area in southern
Peru. We look especially for White-browed Tit-Spinetail and Ash-breasted
Tit-Tyrant, and we should find White-winged Diuca-Finch, Giant Conebill,
Tit-like Dacnis, Blue-mantled and Purple-backed Thornbills, and if we
are exceptionally lucky the critically endangered Royal Cinclodes. Overnight
in Sacred Valley.
Day 5 - Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu
We transfer to the Ollantaytambo station to catch the train to Machu
Picchu. The journey takes about three and a half hours. In the latter
stages we travel beside the Urubamba River where Torrent Ducks, White-capped
Dippers and Torrent Tyrannulets occur. Arriving in the town of Aguas
Calientes, we check in to our hotel before we take the bus up to Machu
Picchu ruins. Here we take a guided tour of key sites, learning about
what is known and ideas about the unknown. After the tour we can explore
some more, soak up the atmosphere, or search for a few birds, notably
the endemic Inca Wren. Night in Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
Day 6 - Machu Picchu
Some pre-breakfast birding in the hotel gardens will give us a chance
for species such as Gould’s Inca, Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch and
Highland Motmot. After a fine buffet breakfast there will be another
opportunity to visit Machu Picchu for those who wish, or more birding
in the hotel grounds where good mixed species flocks are regularly found.
After lunch we take the train back to Cusco. Night in Cusco.
Day 7 - To Pillahuata
We make an early start today as we travel along the Manu road. We first
visit nearby Huarcapay Lake, which holds several species of duck and
waterbirds, migrant shorebirds and Andean Gulls. The reedbeds hold Plumbeous
Rails, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrants and Yellow-winged Blackbird. The nearby
scrub will be carefully birded in search of highlights such as Speckle-fronted
Thornbird and Rusty-fronted Canastero. Other possibilities include Andean
Negrito, Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant and various seedeaters and sierra-finches.
We have a packed lunch en route and bird all day, arriving at our lodge
at Pillahuata at 2743 m, in late afternoon. We make stops at the tombs
of Ninamarca where, in addition to fascinating pre-Inca ruins and a spectacular
view, we may find Andean Flicker. Moving on we bird a series of scrubby
ravines where Creamy-crested Spinetail and Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch
are both possible. The Puna zone holds Andean Lapwing, Paramo Pipit and
various other specialties. We continue the trip driving through the Andes
stopping when we see something of interest. At Acjanaco at 3450 m, we
look for Gray-breasted Mountain Toucan, Andean Guan, Scarlet-bellied
Mountain-Tanager, a wide variety of hummingbirds, Collared Jay, Mountain
Cacique, fruiteaters and flycatchers. Night at our comfortable lodge
at Pillahuata.
Day 8 – To Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge
We leave our lodge and begin to descend in altitude, passing through
ever more lush vegetation as we drive down towards the Cock-of-the-Rock
Lodge, for a three-night stay. We bird our way down the upper road searching
for mixed species flocks which can hold manakins, Grass-green Tanager,
Hooded Mountain-Tanager, hemispinguses, flowerpiercers, Black-throated
Tody-Flycatcher, Barred Fruiteater, White-banded Tyrannulets and much
more. If we are lucky we may see Peruvian Treehunter, Golden-plumed Parakeet
or Greater Scythebill. Red-and-white Antpitta is a possibility, as are
Diademed Tapaculo and Golden-collared Tanager.
Days 9 and 10 – Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge
We spend two days birding this marvelous area. One morning we make an
early start to visit the Cock-of-the-Rock lek at dawn. Here we should
witness one of the most impressive spectacles of the natural world as
up to a dozen bright orange males dance and scream in the midstorey of
the forest. We spend quality birding time both above and below the lodge
along the road in this lower temperate zone, and our birdlist will be
impressive - quetzals, Amazonian Umbrellabird, solitaires, gnateaters,
barbets, many tanagers, a host of hummingbirds, and diverse mixed species
flocks. Nights at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.
Day 11 - Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge to Amazonia Lodge
We start early and bird our way down the lower Manu road, pausing every
few kms or whenever we find a mixed species flock. The drive gives us
a great day’s birding with ever changing bird communities as we
descend. We arrive at the Amazonia Lodge for our two night stay with
time to enjoy birding in the lodge grounds. Night at Amazonia Lodge.
Day 12 - Amazonia Lodge
A former tea plantation, the delightful Amazonia Lodge is a birder’s
paradise. The forest around the lodge is in various stages of regrowth,
and therefore has a high diversity of wildlife. Several species of antbirds
occur here - Black, Band-tailed, Warbling, Southern Chestnut-tailed,
White-browed and Spot-backed - as well as several choice species such
as Black-capped Tinamou, Fiery-capped and Band-tailed Manakins, Rufous-crested
Coquette, Wire-crested Thorntail, Amethyst Woodstar, Fine-barred Piculet,
and Johannes’s Tody-Tyrant. Military Macaws are possible, and we’ll
keep an eye and ear out for them as they fly across the canopy. The ridge
above the lodge holds the endemic Koepcke’s Hermit, Ocellated Woodcreeper,
Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant and Golden-bellied Warbler, and White Hawk
and Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle may catch a thermal and soar over the
ridge. Around the lodge are Black-banded Owl, Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl,
and Common and Long-tailed Potoos. Night at Amazonia Lodge.
Day 13 - Amazonia Lodge to Manu Wildlife Centre
We leave the Amazonia Lodge and head by vehicle and boat to our next
destination, the equally delightful Manu Wildlife Centre where we spend
the next three nights.
Days 14 & 15 - Manu Wildlife Centre
Possibilities here are seemingly infinite. The area around an oxbow lake
holds Straight-billed Woodcreeper, River Tyrannulet, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher,
Pale-eyed Blackbird, the bizarre Hoatzin, Black-capped Donacobius, Black-collared
Hawk, Little Cuckoo, as well as waterbirds such as Anhinga, Rufescent
Tiger-Heron, Green Ibis, Limpkin, Sungrebe and Wattled Jacana. We have
a chance of seeing the endangered Giant Otter. Across the river from
the lodge is a stand of Guadua bamboo, a very special habitat occupied
by very special birds - Rufous-headed Woodpecker, Rufous-capped Nunlet,
Peruvian Recurvebill, Bamboo Antshrike, and Manu, Striated, and Goeldi’s
Antbirds. The forest along the river holds several woodpeckers, woodcreepers,
foliage-gleaners, tanagers and wrens, possibly Pavonine Quetzal, curious
birds such as Plain Softtail and Orange-fronted Plushcrown, and the scarce
and very local Rufous-fronted Antthrush. There is a canopy tower at the
centre, and sightings from the tower into the canopy can be superlative
- several species of raptors, parrots, toucans and aracaris, flycatchers,
tanagers, and possibly Purple-throated Cotinga. Another feature of the
centre is a Round-tailed Manakin lek, which we visit in the hope of seeing
the flamboyant males in full display. Great Potoos occur around the lodge,
and we should hear their odd growling calls at night. Brazilian Tapirs
come to a salt lick close to the lodge, and with luck we could glimpse
this elusive denizen of the deep forest. We end our visit to the centre
with an impressive list of birds as well as lots of other wildlife. Nights
in the Manu Wildlife Centre.
Day 16 - Manu Wildlife Centre to Lima
Today we travel down the Manu River to the airstrip at Boca Manu and
our flight to Cusco and then on to Lima. Night in Miraflores district
of Lima.
Day 17 - Pantanos de Villa, Pucusana and Departure
We have early morning travel to the fishing village of Pucusana where
we take a boat trip around the harbour for good views of seabirds and
with luck a Southern Sealion or the rare endemic Marine Otter. Just outside
the harbour we could find Peruvian Boobies, Guanay Cormorants as well
as Inca Terns, Red-legged Cormorants and a few Humboldt Penguins. The
rocky shores hold Blackish Oystercatcher and Seaside Cinclodes, the most
marine of all passerines. After a box lunch, we visit the Pantanos de
Villa Reserve in southern Lima. This wetland, accidentally created, is
now a haven for many species of waterbirds and others. Pools hold the
impressive Great Grebe as well as herons, ducks, ibises, and waders.
Reeds fringing the pools hold Many-coloured Rush-Tyrants and Wren-like
Rushbirds. From the beach we could see some of the more common seabirds
of the Humboldt Current, such as Peruvian Booby and Peruvian Pelican
and Inca Tern with shearwaters, storm-petrels and skuas also being possible.
An area of dry grassland and scrub behind the beach supports Peruvian
Thick-knee. We then have a late evening transfer to the airport for flights
home.
What to expect
Our key word for the trip is diversity.
We have about 12 h of daylight, and sunrise is about 5:15 am. As it
is imperative to be out at dawn, then most mornings will start early.
We usually finish activities by 8 pm. On a typical day, we have an
early pre-dawn breakfast followed by a slow-paced walk in forest or
on paramo usually along roads or wide trails. After lunch we usually
have some time for a siesta or enjoy watching hummingbirds at the lodge’s
feeders. Later In the afternoon we venture again into the forest. On
some occasions we will go spotlighting in the forest or along a river
at night. Trails may be muddy; waterproof footwear is always recommended.
Rubber boots are provided at Amazonia Lodge. The trails at Machu Picchu
are of moderate difficulty, but we will be walking slowly. Trails in
the lowlands along the coast are easy to moderate. At higher elevation,
we bird along roadsides a short distance from the vehicle. Altitude
sickness can be a problem, and our trip is designed to allow acclimatization
time. However, those with heart or respiratory conditions should consult
their physician prior to the tour. We enjoy most of our excellent meals
provided by the various lodges’ dining facility. Most lunches
will be a lunch box in a nice setting or we dine in the lodge’s
restaurants. Accommodations range from very good to basic; single rooms
are not always available. At Pillahuata, we stay at Wayquecha Lodge,
a biological research station with shared bathrooms. Shared bathrooms
are also at Amazonia Lodge.
Weather varies greatly with elevation, and we should be prepared for
a range of temperatures from quite chilly and damp to decidedly hot and
humid. Layers and a windbreaker would be the solution in the mountains.
In all altitudes, we should remember to have adequate protection from
the sun.