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Detailed Itinerary

India is a country with so much to offer that it has become a must-visit destination. During our three-week trip we sample the best that Northern India has to offer in the way of birds, mammals, flora, scenery, culture and cuisine. By visiting a variety of habitats, ranging from lowland water bodies to mountainside forests, we should amass a list of about 400 bird species, several large mammals (including, hopefully, tiger), reptiles, butterflies and numerous plants. From large cities we travel to tiny rural villages where few Westerners ever enter; we will marvel at the Taj Mahal and other historic sites, and we will enjoy the friendly people and the stunning colours. Come along on the trip of a lifetime!

Day 1 - Arrival in Delhi
Arrive in Delhi just after midnight. Transfer to Hotel Silver Ferns for overnight. During the day we may have a few hours to do some sightseeing and start on our bird list. Then we transfer to the railway station for a late afternoon departure for Katni in the Bandhavgarh area in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Overnight in First Class AC sleeper.

Days 2 - 4 - Bandhavgarh National Park
We arrive in Katni early in the morning and drive to nearby Bandhavgarh N.P. After check-in there will be some time for birding before we go on our first tiger safari. The park has the highest known tiger density in India and we will be searching for these magnificent cats from open jeeps twice each day (a 4-hour morning trip and a 3-hour afternoon jaunt). At midday we may relax at the hotel or bird the grounds of our hotel.

There may be as many as 25 Tigers still present in this marvelous park. Their main prey is the Chital (Axis Deer) which maintains a healthy population in the area. Other notable mammals include the Hanuman Langur, Rhesus Macaque, and, if we are very fortunate, Dhole, the Indian Wild Dog. Birding is very rich, and includes several raptors such as Crested Honey-Buzzard and Crested Hawk-Eagle, many parakeets, Jungle Owlet, Indian Peafowl, Indian Grey Hornbill and a host of other species from barbets to leafbirds, treepies to sunbirds. Night at Bandhavgarh

Day 5 - Transfer to Agra
After a morning birding, perhaps searching for species we may have missed up to now, we drive to Katni to catch the train for Agra. Overnight First Class AC sleeper.

Day 6 - Taj Mahal, Red Fort and transfer to Bharatpur
We arrive early in the morning in Agra. There will be many highlights here, including visits to the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal. The latter in often called the world’s greatest monument to love, built by Shah Jahan after his wife Mumtaz Mahal passed away. Jahan was later imprisoned in the Red Fort by his son Aurangzeb. The Yamuna River behind the Taj is often good for cormorants, kingfishers and several other species.

In the afternoon we drive to Bharatpur. Time permitting, we may visit Fatehpur Sikri, the short-lived capital of Mughal Emperor Akbar, which is now a well-preserved ghost-city. Night in Bharatpur.

Days 7 – 9 - Keoladeo Ghana National Park
Arguably the best single birding location in India, Keoladeo is one of the best wildlife reserves on earth. Our day lists should top 100 species. Our days consist of walking leisurely along the dikes between the various impoundments, where the numbers of birds are staggering and the air is rarely empty of soaring raptors and wading birds. Among the impressive birdlife are numerous ducks and geese, large numbers of Painted Storks and other herons and egrets, a variety of raptors including Greater Spotted Eagle and possibly Imperial Eagle, francolins, Sarus Crane, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, up to 20 species of shorebirds including White-tailed Lapwing, kingfishers, Indian Roller and many more. Golden Jackal, Nilgai and Sambar are some of the larger mammals we should see, and we may find Rock Python. On our third day we hire a local naturalist who can show us some of the hard-to-get species, such as roosting owls and nightjars. Nights in Bharaptur.

Day 10 - Bundh Baretha
Today we visit Bundh Baretha, a large impoundment which provides water for the city of Bharatpur as well as the Keoladeo Ghana N.P. It usually harbours several species of waterfowl that are rare or absent at the National Park and we have a good chance of seeing Indian Skimmer. We enjoy great views over the water from a scenic, abandoned hunting palace on a hilltop overlooking the lake. Here whilst having a field-lunch, we watch the trees and shrubbery near the dam for prinias, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler and possibly Sulphur-bellied Warbler. On the way home we’ll stop in at a Flying Fox roost and see some decorative mud (dung) huts. Night in Bharaptur.

Day 11 - Transfer to Kathgodam
We drive to Delhi and board our overnight train to Kathgodam (2nd class sleeper; no 1st class available on this train).

Days 12 -15 - Himalayan Foothills
After arrival in Kathgodam we drive into the foothills of the Himalayas, where our base will be Pangot, at 2100 m altitude. The avifauna will be completely different from that at Bharatpur; here the focus will be on raptors (including Lammergeyer), parakeets, babblers, laughing-thrushes, flycatchers, water-redstarts and more.

With the tall Himalayan peaks as a backdrop, we spend our days exploring the hillsides, valleys, forests and steam beds to see as many species as possible. Birding is more challenging here, but each day should bring us new species. Eurasian and Himalayan Griffons, Slaty-headed and Red-breasted Parakeets, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Blue Whistling-Thrush, White-capped Water-Redstart, Black Bulbul, Grey-hooded Warbler, Rufous Sibia and Russet Sparrow are some of the expected species. Wild elephants and Muntjak are also possible. Nights in Pangot.

Day 16 - Mongoli Valley; transfer to Delhi
We drive from Pangot to Delhi today. En route we stop at the Mongoli Valley where we may see Lammergeyer, Black Francolin, Spotted Forktail, Red-billed Leothrix and other species. In Delhi we once again check into Hotel Silver Ferns.

Day 17 - Siliguri in Northeast India
We have a morning flight from Delhi to Bagdogra, and from there we transfer by vehicle to Siliguri. Check in at Hotel Cindrella. After lunch we’ll bird at Mahananda, a wildlife area along a river with the same name. Overnight at hotel.

Day 18 - Siliguri – Samthar Farm
This trip by road will take all day. The distance is not great, but roads are narrow, winding and bumpy, and we’ll make many stops en route. The scenery is spectacular, with Kanchenjunga and other tall peaks in the distance. Bhutan and Sikkim are just a stones-throw away and tea and cardamom plantations dot the hillsides. Located some 800 km east of the Pangot area, the avifauna is very different again, although the birding is just as challenging. We look for Whiskered Yuhina, Rufous-winged and Nepal Fulvettas, Black-throated Parrotbill and many other exotic species. Samthar Farm is located at an altitude of 1400 m, in a tiny village. Our lodgings will be basic, but clean and comfortable, with a wonderful staff, and the food promises to be the best of our whole trip. Definitely one of the highlights of the tour. Night at Samthar Farm.

Day 19 - Mandir Khola Forest
We spend all day birding in the nearby Mandir Khola Forest, with lunch in the field. Possible birds include several species of eagle, Green Magpie, minivets, and numerous hard-to-identify Phylloscopus warblers. We also learn much about the local people; their livelihood, culture and customs. Westerners are few and far between here. Night at Samthar Farm.

Day 20 - Samthar – Lava
We can expect more new species today as we drive from Samthar to Lava. Our daily list in this area may be quite low, but we should add 10 to 20 new ones each day. Night in Lava.

Day 21 - Lava and Neora National Park
Today we have a full day of birding around Lava and the fringes of Neora N.P. Situated at 2000- 2400 m, we can expect some higher-altitude species including fulvettas, wren-babblers, laughing-thrushes, Cutia and with great good luck the very rare Blue-throated Robin. Night in Lava.

Day 22 - Transfer to Gurudongma House
Our last full day in this region will take us from Lava to Kalimpong. Again there will be much opportunity for birding, botanizing and photography en route. We overnight at Gurudongma House, a lovely villa with a fine garden and more great food. We should have an opportunity to do some local sightseeing and perhaps visit the market or buy some tea (after all, we are near Darjeeling!). Night at Gurudongma House.

Day 23 - Bagdogra and flight back to Delhi
Today we drive from Kalimpong to Bagdogra, descending from the mountains into the lowlands. The roadsides are very birdy, and we may find Bonelli’s Eagle, Streaked Spiderhunter, Spangled Drongo, Maroon Oriole, Hill Myna and Sultan Tit here, among others. Time permitting we will also make a brief visit to Sorea Park, where we hope to spot Black Ibis, Imperial Green Pigeon, Lesser Adjutant and Black-hooded Oriole.

At Bagdogra we will board our flight to Delhi where the tour ends.

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What to Expect

India is a vast country with a wide array of peoples and cultures. Density of people can seem overwhelming, yet wildlife thrives among the throngs of people. Our tour takes in a diversity of habitats, from wetlands where it is hot and humid to Himalayan foothills where the weather can be cool and sometimes cold. Typically it will be warm, dry and sunny. Accommodations range from comfortable and moderate to good, to fairly basic and clean. Sleeping car trains will be first class, with one second class train in which it will be air-conditioned accommodation with berths in two layers. There will be internal flights to reach the Himalayan foothills. We spend the morning and the late afternoon birding and exploring, sometimes having a siesta in the early afternoon. Driving will be in short to moderate amounts; most roads are quite adequate with the road between Siliguri and Samthar Farm being narrow, winding and bumpy but we take our time traveling this road and stopping frequently. Each evening, the list of birds and other wildlife will be reviewed, and plans for the next day will be discussed.