Diverse Neotropical birding and the ruins of Copan
Honduras, a land of ancient Mayan temples and pyramids set in pristine rainforests, of scenic mountains including the marvelous Pico Bonito Mountain, of beaches, coral reefs and mangroves. It is a land of richly varied and abundant wildlife in a wide array of habitats – including the unique acacia and cactus thorn forest where the endemic Honduran Emerald occurs, and we have an excellent chance of finding some highly desired specialty species such as Lovely Cotinga and Keel-billed Motmot. We spend a couple of days at Copan, in a kingdom anciently named Xukpi (Corner-Bundle) which flourished from the 5 th to the 9 th centuries AD. The site in Copan is perhaps best known for its remarkable series of portrait stelae, placed along processional ways in the central plaza, and a large complex of step-pyramids and palaces, some of the finest surviving art of the Mayans. Birding amongst such marvelous ruins is always an awesome experience. The cloud forests at Pico Bonito and the superb luxury lodge nearby will be a highlight; the avifauna of this area is still relatively unknown, and therefore there is the exciting potential of adding much to the current knowledge of the birdlife on the mountain! A fine tour to a surprisingly diverse country.
Highlights
• Wonderful, often easy birding, with some highly localized and scarce species and an endemic hummingbird
• Stunning historical ruins
• Magnificent mountain scenery, tropical forests and wetlands with a rich and diverse fauna
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in San Pedro Sula, Honduras
Participants should arrange to arrive in San Pedro Sula today. We meet for dinner for a meet and greet, review the itinerary and answer any questions you may have. Overnight San Pedro Sula
Day 2: San Pedro Sula to Copan Ruins
This morning we are introduced to the birds of Honduras as we visit La Campisa on the perimeter of San Pedro Sula. It is actually a large, private residential area that has set aside green areas and wetlands excellent for birding. Here we become familiar with species we may find elsewhere on the tour; we have a good chance of seeing Olive-throated Parakeets, Ruddy Crake, Blue-crowned Motmots, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Common Potoo, several species of over wintering warblers and perhaps a Yellow-billed Cacique. We then return to the B&B and checkout before beginning our 3 hour drive to Copan Ruins.
Once we reach Copan we settle into La Chorcha Lodge, built and operated by your local guide Robert. It is named after the variety of Orioles found on the property (5 in all!) and is situated on the grounds of the Enchanted Wings Nature Center. Each cabin is named after its own custom stained glass piece highlighting an element of native flora and fauna. The property is always full of birds and many can be enjoyed from each of the cabin’s private deck. See www.lachorchalodge.com for details.
We spend this afternoon at the Copan Ruins main archaeological site. As the site at Tikal has been likened as the “New York” of the Mayan world, Copan has been likened as the “Paris” due to its well preserved stone carvings. The glyphs are found throughout the site on tall stelae, around the temples, and the famous hieroglyphic stairway. During a guided tour we will understand the rise and fall of this mighty culture. On site is also found the superb Sculpture Museum. We will always want to have our binoculars handy as there are many bird species who reside at the ruins, such as Great Kiskadee, Roadside Hawk, Red-billed Pigeon, Squirrel Cuckoo, Red-throated Parakeet, Plain Chachalaca, Green-breasted Mango, Turquoise-browed Motmot and Rose-throated Becard.
Over the next couple of days we bird a variety of habitats in the richly diverse Copan area, ranging from mid-elevation broadleaf forest to humid pine/oak and mixed broadleaf woodland. Diversity in this area therefore is quite high with over 400 species found in the area and we have a good chance of seeing many sought after species including Barred Parakeet, Azure-crowned Hummingbird, Elegant Trogon, White-throated Magpie-Jay, Slate-throated Redstart, and both Golden-crowned and Rufous-capped Warblers. Access to some of these areas will require the use of 4-wheel drive vehicles. Overnight: La Chorcha Lodge, Copan Ruins
Day 3: Birding La Laguna/San Francisco route
The La Laguna route passes through farmland, scrub, mixed deciduous woodland and a lush highland pine-oak forest which can yield up to 80-90 species in one morning. We do not visit this type of habitat anywhere else on the trip. Among familiar North American wood-warblers are many resident and unfamiliar species which may include Spot-bellied Bobwhite, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Salvin`s Emerald, Barred Antshrike and Turquoise-browed Motmot. Along the upper stretches we look for White-eared Hummingbird, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Greater Pewee, Bushy-crested Jay, Brown-backed Solitaire, Painted Redstart, Yellow-backed Oriole, Emerald Toucanet and the lovely Elegant Euphonia. The afternoon will be open so you can enjoy the town, visit the butterfly house or just relax at the Lodge. Overnight La Chorcha Lodge, Copan Ruins
Day 4: El Gobiado Nature Reserve
Today we venture out to another habitat. El Gobiado contains the last remaining lowland, humid rain forest in the interior of western Honduras and stretches over 1,200 acres. The area harbors over 300 bird species and the last troops of Mantled Howler monkeys. Upon arriving at a hacienda we mount horses and ride for about 15 minutes to the forest trailhead where we explore this wonderful site. Birds found here include Great Tinamou, Violaceous Trogon, Plain Xenops, Spotted Woodcreeper, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Slaty Antwren, Eye-ringed Flatbill, Golden-crowned Warbler, Nightingale Wren and Blue-black Grosbeak. Upon returning to Copan the afternoon will be free. Overnight La Chorcha Lodge, Copan Ruins.
Day 5: Copan Ruins to Lake Yojoa
After breakfast we visit the Las Sepulturas archaeological site adjacent to the main site. This is where the nobility and shaman lived and would walk to the main plaza via a cobblestone pathway. This little visited site has some good birding and we look for Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Spot-breasted Wren, Yellow-green Vireo, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush and Streak-backed Oriole. Many species of migrant wood-warblers will also be here. After Las Sepulturas we return to the Lodge, pack and depart for Lake Yojoa. This is the country’s largest natural lake, covering about 50 square miles and actually sits in a volcanic depression. The towering Santa Barbara N.P. covers some 30,000 acres and sits to the west of the Lake and is comprised mostly of pine/oak and montane broadleaf forest habitats. Cerro Azul Meambar N.P. sits to the east, covering over 40,000 acres and is comprised of almost entirely mid-elevation to sub-montane rain forests. Around the Lake itself one finds seasonally flooded forest, open waters, and wetlands containing a variety of plant vegetation. The various forested habitats and the wetlands combined make this one of the most avian rich areas in the country, at well over 460 species. Once we reach the Los Pinos visitor’s center at Meambar N.P. and get settled in we spend the rest of the afternoon birding the grounds. There is almost always some type of fruiting wild fig which attracts a wide variety of tanagers, toucans, euphonias, pigeons, saltators and thrushes. There are also some hummingbird feeders and wildflowers which help attract a nice assortment of hummers including Long-billed Starthroat, Violet Sabrewing, White-bellied Emerald and Rufous-tailed Hummingbird. Overnight: Los Pinos visitor’s center.
Day 6: Lake Yojoa
Today we devote the entire day to birding the national park and its varied trail system. Found at this 3,000ft. elevation is a lush mid-elevation rain forest where species mix from both the highlands and lowlands. Here we look for Crested Guan, Short-billed Pigeon, Barred Woodcreeper, Collared Trogon, White-collared Manakin, Plain Antvireo, Crimson-collared Tanager, Blue-crowned Chlorophonia, Northern Bentbill and Green Jay. This is also the best place in Honduras to see the minute, but ornately decorated Black-
crested Coquette. It typically perches high up and sallies out to visit canopy flowers, often returning to the same perch minutes later. Scope views, however, will reveal every little detail of its magnificent plumage. We hike one or two of the park’s trails, depending on everyone’s interest and capabilities. More secretive forest-dwelling species include Scaled Antpitta, Keel-billed Motmot, Golden-crowned Warbler, Little Tinamou, Ruddy Quail-Dove, Scaly-throated Foliage-Gleaner and Mexican Antthrush. Tonight after dinner we search for some nocturnal species including Common Pauraque and Mottled Owl. Overnight Los Pinos visitor’s center.
Day 7: Lake Yojoa
This morning we visit the Lake itself to bird various sites. Lake Yojoa holds 10 of Honduras` Honduras` 12 crakes and rails and we make an effort to look for several including Ruddy Crake, Gray-breasted Crake and Spotted Rail. We first visit the Los Naranjos Archaeological site at the north end of the lake. Its origins were found in the still existing Lencan culture. This site offers excellent birding opportunities as a series of flat, well maintained trails pass through forest and along the edges of the semi-open archaeological site. An extensive elevated boardwalk also leads through forested swamp out into a series of pools and marshes on the edge of the lake. Here we stand a good chance at encountering Sungrebe, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Muscovy Duck, Grayish Saltator and Red-legged Honeycreeper. This is also one of the best places to get the northernmost ranging species of Synallaxis, Rufous-breasted Spinetail. This will also be our only chance at the musical Rufous-and-white Wren whose range is quite restricted in Honduras. After Los Naranjos we have lunch at Hotel Agua Azul; on the grounds we look for Olivaceous Piculet which often nests in nearby tree cavities. Tropical Parula, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, motmots, flycatchers and crakes are also here. We end the day with a visit to a restaurant lookout along the southern corner of the Lake to scan out for flotillas of ducks and other waterbirds. White-tailed Kite and Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture can also be seen here. Overnight Los Pinos visitor’s center.
Day 8: Lake Yojoa to Tela
After an early breakfast we pack up and leave, making a couple of stops to bird secondary forest along the entrance road. A couple of prize birds found here are Prevost`s Ground-Sparrow and Green-backed Sparrow. Upon arriving in Tela we check in to our hotel and bird from the balcony. Overnight Hotel Maya Vista, Tela.
Day 9: Tela to Olanchito
This morning we bird the renowned Lancetilla Botanical Gardens established in the mid-1900s as a research station. Although the research stopped decades ago the place has been naturally “converted” into an excellent birding hotspot along the north coast. We focus along the entrance road where we can expect 70 species or more. Birds we look for include Blue Ground-Dove, Gray Hawk, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, Black-headed Trogon, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Cocoa and Tawny-winged Woodcreepers, Great Antshrike, Royal Flycatcher and Orange-billed Sparrow. Ruddy Crakes haunt tall grass along the road. We then travel to Olanchito, passing by the towering Pico Bonito N.P. and reach the rain shadow valley on the other side. Upon arriving in Olanchito we check in to our hotel and have a family style dinner. Overnight Hotel Beverly, Olanchito.
Day 10 : Olanchito to Lodge at Pico Bonito
We rise extra early today to reach our destination near sunrise. The Aguan Valley sits in the shadow of Pico Bonito and looks like southern Arizona with towering organ pipe cacti, prickly pear cacti and many spiny plants. A true xerophytic ecosystem, it is home to Honduras` only known endemic bird, the Honduran Emerald. Few birders venture out this far so seeing this critically endangered species will be a highlight. The Emerald survives mostly on nectar from cacti, bromeliads and a succulent euphorb. We also look for Double-striped Thick-Knee, Lesser Roadrunner, Lesser Ground-Cuckoo, Zone-tailed Hawk, White-lored Gnatcatcher, Hook-billed Kite, Plumbeous Kite, Laughing Falcon, White-bellied Wren and King Vulture. Oddly enough, Gray-necked Wood-Rail and Green Jay have been seen in this habitat. Usually around mid-morning we are finished birding. We have an early lunch at a local hacienda before returning to Olanchito. We backtrack to the north coast and end up at our final destination, luxurious Lodge at Pico Bonito. After checking in we have the option of relaxing or going on a short bird walk on the grounds. Many species are visible around the reception area including Olive-throated Parakeet, White-crowned Parrot, White-necked Jacobin, Keel-billed Toucan, Collared Aracari, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Montezuma Oropendola and Black-cowled Oriole. We also make our first attempt at locating the Lovely Cotinga from the first canopy tower from where it is often seen. Overnight Lodge at Pico Bonito.
Day 11: Pico Bonito
We spend the entire day on the property of the Lodge`s 400 acres of plantations, gardens and various stages of rain forest. After an early breakfast we hike the Lodge`s loop trail. It is a difficult trail, but there are steps and we go slowly as we search for some great lowland rainforest species such as Slaty-breasted Tinamou, Tawny-faced Quail, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, White Hawk, Violet-headed Hummingbird, Keel-billed Motmot, Chestnut-colored Woodpecker, Scaly-throated Leaftosser, Rufous Mourner, Long-billed Gnatwren, Black-throated Shrike-Tanager, Gray-headed Piprites and Black-faced Grosbeak. After lunch we have the option of resting by the pool or taking a short walk on the grounds. Along the entrance road we often find Red-lored Parrot, Pale-billed Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet, White-vented Euphonia and Bat Falcon. Right after dark we look for Guatemalan Screech-Owl, which haunts second growth woodland nearby. Overnight Lodge at Pico Bonito.
Day 12: Cuero y Salado Wildlife Refuge
This morning we make a short drive toward the coast for our visit to the Cuero y Salado Wildlife Refuge. After arriving at the train station we take a 20 minute narrow rail train ride through farmland and wetlands until we reach the reserve. At times we see some good birds during the train ride such as White-tailed Kite, White Ibis, Common Black-Hawk, Laughing Falcon or an occasional Jabiru. Once we reach the reserve we take a boat or two (depending on group size) to explore the mangrove estuary. The area contains three species of mangroves and other broadleaf trees that sit on higher ground. We look for Tamandua (Mexican Anteater), Mantled Howler Monkey, White-faced Capuchin, Green Iguanas, Black Caiman and American Crocodile. The area does contain a population of the West Indian Manatee, but they often reside on the other side of the reserve. Birds we will be on the lookout for include Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, Boat-billed Heron, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, Gray-headed Kite, Gray-necked Wood-Rail, Sungrebe, Mangrove Cuckoo, American Pygmy Kingfisher and Western Slaty Antshrike. We return to the Lodge in time for lunch, followed by relaxation, a swim, see the reptile exhibit or go on a bird walk. Overnight Lodge at Pico Bonito.
Day 13: Lodge at Pico Bonito to San Pedro Sula
Before breakfast we go to the first canopy tower. If we haven`t yet seen the Lovely Cotinga on the previous days we will certainly be looking for it today. Although it occurs elsewhere in Honduras this is probably the best place to see it. During the breeding season (Feb. to March) a male often perches very close by to the tower as it watches over its valley territory. After breakfast we have the option of an easy hike, do the loop trail again or stay around the Lodge and relax. We have lunch before packing up and heading to San Pedro Sula for the night. Overnight San Pedro Sula.
Day 14: Departures
The tour concludes today allowing people ample time to get to the airport in order to catch their flight home. For those with later flights, we suggest a trip to the nearby Guamilito market. Within walking distance of the hotel, the market offers the most complete selection of Honduran handicrafts in San Pedro Sula including Lenca pottery, woodworking, and a variety of other souvenirs.
Featured Birds and Mammals:
• Honduran Emerald
• Keel-billed Motmot
• Northern Nightingale Wren
• Lovely Cotinga
• Elegant Euphonia
• Sungrebe
• American Pygmy Kingfisher
• Spot-breasted Oriole
• Rufous-capped Warbler
• Slate-colored Solitaire
• Bushy-crested Jay
Dates: March 10 - 23, 2013 (dates are approximate)
Duration: 14 days
Price: TBD, 2011 price was $3,975 USD
Tour Starts & Ends: San Pedro Sula
What to Expect
• Easy to moderate walking with one 2 mile hike
• Warm days, hot on some afternoons, warm nights
• Moderate to good accommodation, with one night in basic accommodation
• Spectacular scenic ruins
• Moderate amounts of driving, some long days
• Easy neotropical birding, lots of other wildlife
• Two wildlife boat rides and one narrow-guage train ride
• 6 - 12 participants with two leaders
We spend the more pleasant parts of the day, morning and late afternoon, birding and exploring each area we visit. Early afternoons on some days will be for siestas or gentle birding around the lodges. Most meals will be in the lodge restaurants with a few picnic breakfasts and lunches.
Driving will range from short drives to birding sites to fairly long drives as we transfer between sites. The weather should be warm and pleasant, becoming hot in the middle of the day. Some rain is almost certain and a waterproof jacket or umbrella should be carried.
Most trails and paths are easy to moderate, with a couple of trails fairly difficult; on one day we hike a 2 mile loop. Where a trail is steep, we take time, stopping as often as necessary. Bring mosquito repellent - mosquitoes are not usually a big problem but can be a little frisky after rain. Boat trips will be along the shores of lakes where the water should be calm and protected. Each evening, the list of birds and other wildlife will be reviewed, and plans for the next day will be discussed.



