Guyana

Guyana (formerly British Guyana), an English-speaking country on the north coast of South America, has a small human population concentrated along the coast, and the rest of the country is a marvelous stretch of unbroken, mostly untouched rainforest blending into savanna on the border with Brazil. It is a country that is slowly awakening to the potential of ecotourism and the consequent sustainable use of natural habitats, so our tour is a timely support to encourage this progress.

Guyana is home to Kaieteur Falls, where the Potaro River plunges 741 feet in the single longest drop of any waterfall. It is also home to the vast Iwokrama Forest Reserve and its miles of forest roads and trails and a new canopy walkway, up to 30 m in height and over 150 m in length near the Atta Rainforest Lodge; this reserve has gained the reputation of being among the best sites for such amazing species as Harpy Eagle and Jaguar. We take in the Amerindian village of Surama, at an ecolodge run by the local Macushi tribe situated in savanna and ringed by the forest-covered Pakaraima Mountains; a fascinating experience. We visit Karanambu Ranch, an ecolodge run by Diane McTurk, world famous for her amazing rehabilitation of orphaned Giant Otters, and featured in wildlife shows of David Attenborough and Gerald Durrell. We experience a land where travel is as much by boat along several mighty rivers, the Essequibo, Demerara and Rupununi, arising on the Guyanan Shield and flowing out into the Atlantic. The large expanses of untouched forest are a welcome sight, offering hope for the continued survival of those species that require large unfragmented habitats – eagles, big cats, tapirs, macaws, parrots, cotingas and much more. This is an excellent opportunity to bird the riches of South America – diversity will be very high! It also has a sense of adventure as we travel by boat along rivers and waterways through miles of forests, or fly over large expanses of forests to land beside huge waterfalls or on vast savannas, and stay in lodges far removed from other habitation. Finally, we offer an extension to visit the rivers on the border with Brazil for some very local and scarce endemics and an opportunity to search for the endangered Red Siskin at the amazing Dadanawa Ranch.
 

Highlights
• Exceptional, high quality birding and wildlife viewing in a range of habitats
• Picturesque and spectacular scenery, from huge waterfalls to stretches of unbroken forest and scenic rivers
• Exciting experiences, from canopy walkways, many boat rides, visiting a Macushi village to meeting world-famous Diane McTurk and her orphaned Giant Otters

 

Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrival in Guyana
On arrival at Cheddi Jagan airport in Guyana, we transfer to our hotel in Georgetown. Our route to our hotel and the hotel grounds will introduce us to many familiar birds – Cattle, Great and Snowy Egrets, Southern and Yellow-headed Caracaras, Southern Lapwing, Pale-vented Pigeon, Orange-winged Parrot, Brown-throated Parakeet, Tropical Kingbird, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Mockingbird, Southern House Wren, Blue-gray and Palm Tanagers, and Gray-breasted Martin. Time permitting, we head. to the Botanical Gardens, a marvelous area of palms, mature trees, waterways covered in lotus blossoms, and many special birds, from Snail Kites, Limpkins and Donacobius to parrots including Festive, macaws including both Red-bellied and Red-shouldered, Black-crested Antshrike, White-bellied and Golden-spangled Piculets, Crimson-crested and Lineated Woodpeckers, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Turquoise Tanager, and perhaps the star bird of the gardens – Blood-coloured Woodpecker, a colorful Veniliornis endemic to the coastal plain of the Guianas. West Indian Manatees add an interesting mammal dimension to our visit. Overnight Georgetown.

Day 2 - Abery River, Mahaica River and Botanical Garden
Dawn will find us in the area of the Abary River, an excellent place for Rufous Crab-Hawk, Donacobius, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Moriche Oriole and Guianan Piculet, and another chance for Blood-coloured Woodpecker. On our return to Georgetown we take a boat on the Mahaica River to see Guyana’s national bird, the Hoatzin, as well as Greater Ani, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Red-capped Cardinal and more. In the late afternoon, we revist Georgetown’s Botanical Gardens, where we search for Blood-coloured Woodpecker, Pearl Kite, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Toco Toucan, Pied Water-Tyrant, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet and numerous other goodies. Night in Georgetown.

Day 3 – Kaiteur Falls and transfer to Iwokrama
After breakfast, we depart on a chartered flight to Kaieteur Falls, the world’s highest free-falling waterfall. Though Venezuela’s Angel Falls are greater in total height, their filamentous drop occurs by stages whereas Kaieteur is a single, massive, thundering cataract 100 meters wide, created as the Potaro River makes a sheer drop of 228 meters, nearly five times the height of Niagara Falls. We walk around this interesting area, with its unique flora of heaths and giant ground bromeliads (with its golden frog). Guyanan Cocks-of-the-Rock occur here, as do the striking White-tipped Swift swirling over the gorge and which nests behind the waterfall, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, Orange-breasted Falcon as it hunts swifts, Sunbittern, Red-shouldered Tanager, and noisy Coraya Wrens.
We then fly over miles of unbroken tropical rainforest to land at Iwokrama Airstrip, from where we transfer to Iwokrama River Lodge. This protected area was established in 1996 as the Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development. The lodge is situated along the Essequibo River, where Cocoi and Capped Herons, Black Skimmer, Pied Lapwing, Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns and Anhinga occur. Trails at Iwokrama support Gray-winged Trumpeter, Spix’s Guan, Collared Trogon, several woodpeckers including Chestnut, Golden-collared, Golden-green and Ringed, Eastern Slaty-Antshrike, Amazonian Antshrike, Strong-billed Woodcreepers and Sooty-headed Tyrannulet. This afternoon we bird trails close to the field station, perhaps the aptly named Screaming Piha Trail. An evening boat ride should reveal several Black Cayman and white Ghost Bats, and we look for Ladder-tailed Nightjar and perhaps a Potoo – Great, Common, possibly the rare Rufous and White-winged. Overnight at Iwokrama River Lodge.

Day 4 – Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve
After an early morning excursion on the Essequibo River, we continue our journey to Turtle Mountain, elevation 300 m, for views over the forest canopy. The trail to Turtle Mountain passes through primary forest where we look for Red-and-Black Grosbeak, Yellow-billed Jacamar, Golden-sided Euphonia, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, Waved Woodpecker, woodcreepers – White-chinned, Plain-brown, Amazonian Barred, Chestnut-rumped and Wedge-billed, Dusky-throated and Cinereous Antshrikes, Long-winged Antwren, several antbirds, and Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner. Overhead glide King Vultures, Plumbeous and Swallow-tailed Kites, and Zone-tailed and Short-tailed Hawks. Mammals include Red Howler and Black Spider Monkeys. After lunch we bird the trails around the River Lodge, perhaps visit a nearby Capuchinbird lek, or take a boat to the village to see Blue-and-yellow Macaws. After dinner we may take another boat ride on the river. Overnight at Iwokrama River Lodge.

Day 5 – Transfer to Atta Rainforest Lodge
After breakfast, we leave for the Atta Rainforest Lodge. We stop at the Mori Scrub, where we target Black Manakin and Rufous-crowned Elaenia, along with Cinnamon Attila, specialties of this kind of habitat. We bird along the road between Iwokrama and Atta, arriving at noon for lunch. The road is one of the best areas for seeing Black Curassow, Gray-winged Trumpeter, White Bellbird, Pompadour Cotinga, Blue-cheeked Parrot, Rose-breasted Chat and Blue-backed Tanager. In the afternoon we visit the Canopy Walkway, 30 meters above the forest floor. From platforms we look for Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle, Purple-breasted and Spangled Cotingas, several parrots perched on the tops of trees, Crimson Fruitcrow, Paradise Tanager, Dusky Purpletuft, Guianan Puffbird and Red-necked Woodpecker. At dusk our local guide will attempt to call in a White-winged Potoo. Overnight at Atta Lodge.

Day 6 – Atta Rainforest Lodge
We spend the day on the Canopy Walkway and trails around the lodge. At dawn we may again visit the walkway to look for passing flocks of canopy dwelling species which may contain Todd’s and Spot-tailed Antwrens, Guianan Toucanet, Green and Shining Honeycreepers, and Black-faced Dacnis. Red-and-black Grosbeak and Whiskered Flycatcher occur close to the clearing. We again try for White-winged Potoo should we have been unsuccessful the previous night. Overnight at Atta Lodge

Day 7 - Transfer to Surama.
We bird the rainforest trails at Atta for species not yet found, and then we leave for the Macushi Amerindian village of Surama. Lying amidst rich rainforests punctuated by the jagged Pakaraima Mountains, Surama has become a model for Amerindian Ecotourism by creating an innovative system of locally designed natural and cultural conservation. After being greeted by the local staff , we will settle into our comfortably rustic accommodations, a mix of traditional en-suite Benab-style huts and a brick guest building. We may go for a late afternoon walk or maybe relax in a hammock, before dining together in the central Benab. In the evening, Least Nighthawks and Pauraques call nearby. Overnight at Surama Eco-Lodge

Day 8 – Surama Area: Burro-burro River and Harpy Eagle
At dawn we plan to walk through the forest to the Burro-Burro River for a quiet paddle by our local guides in canoes along the river. We have possible opportunities to observe Giant Otter, several species of monkeys including Brown Capuchin, and a wealth of birds. We search the banks for Black-chinned and Silvered Antbirds, Pygmy Antwren, Buff-breasted Wren, White-banded Swallow, American Pygmy Kingfisher, Crane Hawk and Gray-headed Kite. The nearby forest trails around the Eco-Lodge offer excellent opportunities for birding, especially if we encounter army ant swarms. Species here include Black-spotted Barbet, Cream-coloured and Spot-breasted Woodpeckers, Red-fan and Blue-headed Parrots, Scarlet and Red-and-green Macaws, Great and Paradise Jacamars, Green and Black-necked Aracaris, several elaenias, Sulfury Flycatcher, several woodcreepers including Black-banded and Olivaceous, Tiny Tyrant-Manakin, several antbirds including the astonishing White-plumed, Rufous-throated and Scale-backed, Spotted Antpitta, and if very lucky Rufous-winged Ground Cuckoo. In 2011, we found Fiery-tailed Awlbill here.
We drive to the Harpy Eagle trail, where we have a walk of about an hour to a known active nest site where these huge impressive birds may be visible or perhaps a well-grown young bird waiting to be fed. Depending upon remaining time, we may continue to a lek of the Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock where we have another chance to see this superb bird. At dusk we look for Lesser Nighthawk and White-tailed Nightjar. Overnight at Surama Eco-Lodge

Day 9 – Transfer to Rockview
We spend the early morning around Surama; we may search for species not found so far, perhaps Grassland Sparrow, Wedge-tailed Grassfinch and Finsch’s Euphonia, and then leave for Rockview Lodge, traveling south through the forest and into savanna. We bird along the road, looking for cotingas - Spangled, Purple-breasted, Pompadour and Guianan Red. Other birds possible along this road are Marail Guan, Gray-winged Trumpeter, and Caica and Black-headed Parrots. We arrive at Rockview for lunch and spend the afternoon birding the lodge gardens and the foothills of the Pakaraima Mountains. We look for Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Toco Toucan, Great Horned Owl and Burnished-buff Tanager. Overnight at Rockview Lodge.

Day 10 – Transfer to Karanambu
In the early morning we visit the Rockview Nature Trail where we could find Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner, White-flanked Antwren, Sooty-capped Hermit, Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Green-tailed Jacamar, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Blue Dacnis, Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Dusky and White-bellied Antbirds, Rufous-browed Peppershrike and Blue-tailed Emerald. We then transfer to Karanambu Ranch by travelling across the Northern Rupununi Savanna, skirting numerous gallery forests and wetland areas offering great views of a variety of herons and ducks, Jabiru, Gray and Plumbeous Seedeaters, Grassland Yellow Finch, Crested Bobwhite and Aplomado Falcon. At Karanambu Ranch, we will be greeted by Diane McTurk and her remarkable rehabilitation facilities for orphaned Giant Otters – and we may indeed be met by one of her orphans! Karanumbu Ranch is an area of rainforest and savanna, and as such has an interesting assortment of wildlife, from Giant Anteaters to Capuchinbirds. We spend our time here searching forested trails, open savannas, and rivers and backwaters close to the ranch. Possibilities include Black-chinned Antbird, Striped Woodcreeper, Blue-backed Manakin, Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakin, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, and Bicoloured Wren. Waterbirds include Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, Purple Gallinule, the superb Agami Heron, and Wattled Jacanas walking on water-lilies. We travel along the Rupununi River, scanning banks for Crestless Curassow, Sunbittern, Boat-billed Heron and Pale-legged Hornero. At dusk we navigate a narrow channel that takes us into an oxbow lake covered by the Giant Water Lilly Victoria amazonica to witness the opening of the flower of this amazing plant and the appearance of the pollinating beetle. As dusk falls, the night sounds of Tropical and Northern Tawny-bellied Screech Owls, Band-tailed and Lesser Nighthawks, and Great and Common Potoos drift over the lake. Overnight at Karanambu Ranch.

Day 11 – Karanambu Ranch
This morning we head out into the Rupununi Savanna. Across the savanna we scan wetland areas for the very local and scarce Bearded Tachuri, White-tailed Goldenthroat, Yellowish Pipit, Vermilion Flycatcher, Double-striped Thick-knee, and Maguari and Wood Storks, and with luck a Giant Anteater. In the afternoon we travel on the Rupununi River down river to another lake where we might find Green-and-rufous Kingfisher, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, several seedeaters and cotingas. In addition we look for Black and Spectacled Caiman, wild Giant River Otter, and many species of monkeys. Overnight at Karanambu Ranch.

Day 12 – Transfer to Georgetown (or continue on the Lethem/Dadanawa extension)
We spend the morning walking trails around Karanambu before catching our flight back to Georgetown, arriving perhaps in time to revisit the botanical gardens once again. Overnight in Georgetown or see below for Lethem and Dadanawa extension

Day 13 - Departure
After breakfast, we transfer to Cheddi Jagan International Airport Timehri for our departing flight home.
Post-tour Extension to Lethem and the Dadanawa Ranch

Rio Branco endemics & Red Siskin Extension

Day 12 – Transfer to Lethem
We catch a flight to Lethem, the main town in South Rupununi, arriving in time to bird along the Takutu River. Possibilities include Green Ibis, Spix’s Guan, Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner, Spotted and Painted Tody-Flycatchers, Cinereous Becard, Black-faced Dacnis, Yellow-rumped Caciques with attendant Shiny and Giant Cowbirds and Piratic Flycatchers, Cayenne Jay and Epaulet Oriole. Overnight at Lethem

Day 13 – Rio Branco and Ireng River
Two range-restricted species, Hoary-throated Spinetail and Rio Branco Antbird, occur in gallery forest along the Rio Branco and tributaries. The spinetail is classed as endangered and the antbird near-threatened. We take a boatride on the rivers to reach habitats where each occurs; we should also encounter a fine array of waterside species such as Black-collared Hawk, Muscovy Duck, kingfishers, herons, Pale-legged Hornero and maybe Capybara.
In the afternoon, we drive overland to Dadanawa Ranch, a 3 ½ hour drive, arriving at the ranch for dinner. Overnight at Dadanawa Ranch.

Day 14 – Dadanawa Ranch and the Red Siskin
Dadanawa Ranch is the world's largest cattle ranch, encompassing an area of 1750 sq. miles in southern Guyana. Much of the landscape is natural savanna with scattered scrub vegetation with rock outcrops and hillocks across the landscape. It is around these hillocks that one of the world's rarest birds, the Red Siskin, occurs. This species was discovered on ranch lands by a team from the Smithsonian Institution in 2000 at a time when it was thought to be nearly extinct. A small population has been located close to the ranch buildings. As well as the Red Siskin, we could find Pearl Kite, Savanna Hawk, White-tailed Hawk and Aplomado Falcon. Grassland birds of special interest include South American Snipe, Crested Bobwhite, Grassland Yellow Finch, Grassland Sparrow, and several species of seedeaters. Riverine and dry woodlands are a good place to find Golden-spangled Piculet, Swainson's Flycatcher, Ashy-headed Greenlet, Finsch's Euphonia and Hooded Tanager. Giant Anteaters also occur here. We then drive back to Lethem in the late afternoon. Overnight at Lethem

Day 15 – Transfer to Georgetown
We have leisurely morning birding around Lethem, before catching a mid-day flight to Georgetown. Overnight in Georgetown

Day 16 - Departure
After breakfast, we transfer to Cheddi Jagan International Airport Timehri for our departing flight home.
 

Featured Birds and Mammals:

• Guyanan Cock-of-the-Rock
• Guyanan Red-Cotinga
• Rufous Crab-Hawk
• Blood-coloured Woodpecker
• Purple-breasted Cotinga
• Capuchinbird
• White-plumed Antbird
• Red-Fan Parrot
• Paradise Jacamar
• Possible nesting Harpy Eagle

Dadanawa Extension
• Red Siskin
• Rio Branco Antbird
• Giant Anteater
 

Dates:  January 11 - 23, 2013

Duration: 13 days

Price: TBA

Tour Starts & Ends: Georgetown, Guyana

Rio Branco endemics & Red Siskin Extension January 22 - 26, 2013

*Single rooms may not be available at all accommodations

What to Expect

• Diverse wildlife habitats
• Considerable travel by boat on rivers, backwaters and streams
• Both night drives and boat rides after dark
• Accommodation simple to modern, but all comfortable
• Bus or van with driver
• 6 to 12 participants with two leaders
• Mainly tropical climate, mix of sun and rain
• Includes in-country flights
• Trails easy to moderate walking; some steep sections
 

You can expect some early morning, before breakfast excursions as well as a couple of very early breakfasts (about 4.30 AM) so we can be in the field for dawn. Everywhere in the tropics it is desirable to be in good habitat by daybreak when bird activity and song are at their peaks. We concentrate on “edge” birding until the light is good enough to enter forest trails. Often we return to our lodge around noon for lunch and a siesta. We bird in the cool of the late afternoon. We have night boat rides in the Iwokrama Forest Preserve and at Karanambu Ranch.

Our tour includes in-country air flights and several boat trips as we travel from one destination to the next. On days that we drive, we travel short distances in order to maximize our time in the field. Most birding will be from quiet roads, wide trails, boats and the marvelous canopy walkway at Atta. The trails we walk are mostly flat, easy to moderate, with some steep rocky sections. You can expect hot weather, sometimes humid, with a mixture of sun and cloud and occasional rain. Stout, waterproof footwear is an advantage and a light rain jacket and waterproof hat are recommended. A small umbrella is also very useful. Mosquitoes and other biting insects should not be a problem on this tour, but it is advisable to bring insect repellant. Chiggers are present, and suitable precautions should be made.

Accommodations vary from simple to modern; all will be comfortable. Our visit to the Macushi village of Surama will be a fascinating experience. Most meals are taken at lodges; on some days we have picnic lunches prepared for us in order to maximize our time in the field and allow a more flexible schedule. In the evening, after dinner, we discuss the day’s events and sightings, list the birds and other wildlife seen, and prepare for the next day’s itinerary.

Previous checklists from our Guyana tours:

2010 Guyana tour (pdf)
2009 Guyana tour (pdf)
2008 Guyana tour (pdf)